Borderless Cuisine

The term atelier is more commonly used to describe the workspace of a chi-chi fashion designer or gallery-worthy artiste. But in this case, Atelier 317 is the workstation of one of Philippine society’s glam girls who, not content with being a statistic on the Manila’s Best Dressed list, slips out of the designer dresses to don a chef’s jacket and cook for her customers. We refer, of course, to Stephanie Zubiri, Cordon Bleu alum, food writer, young fashion icon, entrepreneur, and now, after a gorgeous wedding to Jonathan Crespi at Misibis Bay, a newly-wed.

Because of her rep as an “it” girl, she may seem intimidating and stand-offish – until you get to sit down and chat with her about her many passions, with a side-trip stories of her teenage escapades in Europe. The same may be said of the restaurant, by virtue of the owner’s background. It may seem intimidating on paper, but a step inside Atelier 317 brings you to a homey atmosphere, with an artsy touch to the knick-knacks on the tables, the assortment of unusual plates and cups, down to the mismatched chairs of the dining area.

There is even an old sewing machine that she had converted at a local shop into a conversation piece/eating area. It’s all hers, she says, “I took my time decorating because I wanted it to reflect my tastes. Everything here, I chose myself. We didn’t get an interior decorator – I bought every piece, and I am actually surprised at how well it all came together.”

The food is also quite eclectic. “I am always asked what kind of cuisine I offer,” she grins. “People like to box you in, and probably because of my culinary training background, they always think I make fancy French food. No, I don’t make fancy French food!” she mock groans. “For me, why does a restaurant have to have a specific cuisine? For me, it is about world food, not just French cuisine. Almost all these recipes are what I eat at home. I like simple ingredients, I like using herbs and spices. These dishes comprise my personal comfort food.” One of these is the Spicy Lamb Bolognese, which she swears is one of her favorites and is a staple in her own home kitchen.

She talks about her mission to make an Atelier meal a memorable experience. “When I was starting out, I was looking for an alternative to my catering business. I wanted to make a restaurant that people will not go to only for special occasions. I want to offer what people like and look for every time they eat at the restaurant, which is comfort food. From our catering, we had a lot of things that were really doing well, like the Bicol Express Chicken. I want people to come here with an open mind, and try new versions of the things that they like or are familiar with.”

Her travels also have a strong influence on her menu. “My menu constantly evolves. I visited Vietnam three times last year to explore, and I loved the food. I went to cooking classes in Thailand. I go around asking people for their recipes. These are the techniques and flavors that I try to translate with my own dishes. I love Indian food, so I am developing South Asian dishes. I talk to friends in the food industry to find out what is happening.”

Still, she insists on keeping it simple and relatable. For all the prestige of Cordon Bleu, she candidly says she did not exceptionally enjoy the experience. “It was too serious, too difficult! I like to cook from the heart!” Her tapa is a recipe from her Lola Zubiri, and aside from the addition of foie gras bits in her molo soup, the bola-bola follows the family formula. “She used to make her bola-bola with tomato sauce, and on some days, I offer that as well,” Stephanie says.

She adds that her philosophy is all about offering the best quality within more reasonable price points. Her hollandaise sauce for the fab Eggs Benedict is made fresh from scratch. Her best-selling Caprese salad is made with kesong puti, instead of the more expensive mozzarella. “I don’t want to charge P500 for a Caprese salad when there is a good alternative that will offer better value!” she says.

Here, she flame-broils the cheese and plump tomatoes to give them a smoky flavor, and drizzles these with olive oil and balsamic reduction, followed by a smattering of fresh basil leaves. A must-try is the melt-in-the-mouth Balsamic Beef Adobo, slow-cooked US Black Angus Short Rib served with Portobello Mushroom Sinangag Rice.

For those who are not inclined to “sin,” Atelier 317 offers healthy vegetarian options such as the Falafel Pita Burger and the creamy Spiced Pumpkin Soup, along with salmon dishes like her Red Curry Salmon Parmentier – flaked, poached salmon topped with lemongrass and fried shallots, served with red curry sauce.

The restaurant, which is now equipped to handle small gatherings for cooking demos at the top floor, is a favorite haunt of well-known personalities for its laid-back vibe. The location, a stone’s throw away from the Powerplant mall, is perfect for a weekend brunch away from the maddening crowds. Stephanie says that her decision not to locate at a mall offers some kind of freedom. “There is no pressure to have a high turnover, and guests are more inclined to linger over coffee or good wine.”

Atelier 317 is located at the Palm Rock Bldg., 6060 Palma corner Osias Sts. (near Makati Science High School) in Poblacion, Makati City. The restaurant is open Mondays to Fridays from 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Saturdays from 8:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. and Sundays from 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. For more information, call 358-0987, 0917-8308393 or e-mail atelier317@epicurusinc.ph.

source: mb.com.ph

A heart-healthy New Year’s resolution

It is so sad to lose a loved one in the midst of the Christmas season’s revelry when everyone seems to be caught up in the merriment of the holidays.

I was in two wakes a few days after Christmas to condole with the families of two close friends.  Heart attack was the cause of their deaths and both victims were in their 70s, considered fairly young in this era of advance medical cardiovascular research and heart-healthy food and supplements that are heralded in the market, health magazines, and heart-related articles on the Internet.

In one of the wakes, I saw a friend whom I have not seen for a year and was pleasantly surprised to see him trim, slim, and looking physically fit. He explained that he had to change his diet and go on a physical regimen after a physical checkup that showed some of his arteries clogged and his cholesterol level hitting 350 (limit is 215, according to his doctor). It was a wake-up call for him and, after undergoing an angioplasty, he was determined to do a complete nutritional makeover. He no longer eats pork or red meat.  He is into fish and vegetables for the most part and, most importantly, he got himself involved in biking and hiking for his cardiovascular regimen.

After all the rich food that we ingested during the holiday season, it is time to go back to the basics and eat heart-healthy food.  According to the 2013 Diet Review on WebMD, here are some of the foods that will make our hearts healthier and make us shed unwanted pounds:  These powerhouses form a global approach to heart-wise eating. 




• Fresh herbs. Fresh herbs make many other foods heart-healthy when they replace salt, sugar, and trans fats.  Fact: Rosemary, sage, oregano, and thyme contain antioxidants.

• Black beans. Mild, tender black beans are packed with heart-healthy nutrients, including folate, antioxidants, magnesium, and fiber which helps control both cholesterol and blood sugar levels. Tips: Canned black beans are quick additions to soups and salads. Rinse to remove extra sodium.

• Red wine and resveratrol. If you drink alcohol, a little red wine may be a heart-healthy choice. Resveratrol and catechins, two antioxidants in red wine, may protect artery walls. Alcohol can also boost HDL, the good cholesterol.

Tips: Don’t exceed one drink a day for women; one to two drinks for men — but talk to your doctor first. Alcohol may cause problems for people taking aspirin and other medications. Too much alcohol actually hurts the heart.

• Salmon. A top food for heart health, salmon is rich in the omega-3s EPA and DH. Omega-3s may lower risk of rhythm disorders and reduce blood pressure. Salmon also lowers triglycerides and reduces inflammation. The American Heart Association recommends two servings of salmon or other oily fish a week.

• Tuna. Tuna is a good source of heart-healthy omega-3s. It generally costs less than salmon. Albacore (white tuna) contains more omega-3s than other tuna varieties. Reel in these other sources of omega-3s, too: mackerel, herring, lake trout, sardines, and anchovies.

• Extra virgin olive oil. This oil, made from the first press of olives, is especially rich in heart-healthy monounsaturated fats. When olive oil replaces saturated fat (like butter), it can help lower cholesterol levels.
Tip: Use for salads, in cooked veggies, with bread.

• Walnuts. A small handful of walnuts (1.5 ounces) a day may lower your cholesterol and reduce inflammation in the arteries of the heart. Walnuts are packed with omega-3s, monounsaturated fats, and fiber. The benefits especially come when walnuts replace bad fats, like those in chips and cookies and you don’t increase your calorie count.

Tip: A handful has nearly 300 calories. Walnut oil has omega-3s, too; use in salad dressings.

• Almonds. Slivered almonds go well with vegetables, fish, chicken, even desserts, and just a handful adds a good measure of heart health to your meals. They’re chock full of plant sterols, fiber, and heart-healthy fats. Almonds may help lower LDL cholesterol and reduce the risk of diabetes.

• Tofu. Make soy protein the main attraction more often at dinner time by cooking with tofu instead of red meat. You gain all the heart-healthy minerals, fiber, and polyunsaturated fats of soy — and you avoid a load of artery-clogging saturated fat.

• Sweet potato. Sweet potatoes are a hearty, healthy substitute for white potatoes for people concerned about diabetes. With a low glycemic index, these spuds won’t cause a quick spike in blood sugar. Ample fiber, vitamin A, and lycopene add to their heart-healthy profile.
 
Tip: Enhance their natural sweetness with cinnamon and lime juice, instead of sugary toppings.

• Oranges. This sweet, juicy fruit contains the cholesterol-fighting fiber pectin as well as potassium, which helps control blood pressure. A small study shows that OJ may improve blood vessel function and modestly lower blood pressure through the antioxidant hesperidin.

Tip: A medium orange has 62 calories, with three grams of fiber.

• Carrots. The latest research on carrots shows these sweet crunchy veggies may help control blood sugar levels and reduce the risk of developing diabetes. They’re also a top cholesterol-fighting food, thanks to ample amounts of soluble fiber — the kind found in oats.

Tip: Add shredded carrots to spaghetti sauce and muffin batter.

• Oatmeal. Oats in all forms can help your heart by lowering LDL, the bad cholesterol. A warm bowl of oatmeal fills you up for hours, fights snack attacks, and helps keep blood sugar levels stable over time, making it good for people with diabetes, too.

Tip: Swap oats for one-third of the flour in pancakes, muffins, and baked goods. Use oats instead of breadcrumbs in cooking.

• Low-fat yogurt. While low-fat dairy is most often touted for bone health, these foods can help control high blood pressure, too. Milk is high in calcium and potassium, and yogurt has twice as much of these important minerals. To really boost the calcium and minimize the fat, choose low-fat or non-fat varieties.

• Coffee. Coffee and tea may help protect your heart by warding off type 2 diabetes.  Studies show that people who drink coffee three to four times a day may cut their risk by 25 percent — and even decaffeinated coffee works. Caution is due, however, for those who already have diabetes or hypertension: Caffeine can complicate these conditions.

• Cherries. Cherries are packed with anthocyanins, an antioxidant believed to help protect blood vessels. Cherries in any form provide these heart-healthy nutrients:  the larger heart-shaped sweet cherries, the sour cherries for baking, as well as dried cherries and cherry juice.

• Blueberries. The list of healthy nutrients in blueberries is extensive: Anthocyanins give them their deep blue color and support heart health. Blueberries also contain ellagic acid, beta-carotene, lutein, vitamin C, folate, magnesium, potassium, and fiber.

source: philstar.com